In many ways the city of Portland (Oregon), in America’s
Pacific Northwest, epitomises both uses of the term nirvana. The place is 90s
grunge. Right down to the noticeable drug culture and uber cool, almost hippy
feel. Locals sport sleave tatts, piercings are as common as the bicycles on the
streets. T-shirts and jeans are the local dress code. It’s all very ‘Portlandia’.
Yet at the same time, the more traditional, spiritual
meaning of the term is much more apt. Portland is characterised by its oblivion
to pain, worry and the outside world. It has ‘achieved nirvana’ as they say.
But I don’t mean nirvana in a socio-economic or even political sense. Go read a
social science journal. I mean Portland has achieved what others cities can
only dream.
Apologies to Munich and maybe Dublin, but Portland is a rare
city that has achieved the ultimate nirvana. Beer nirvana! This is so bleedingly
obvious locals even have a nickname for their great city...
Beervana.
Brilliant.
Let’s looks at why Portland, sorry I mean Beervana, has
achieved beer nirvana.
Portland (let’s stick to the official name) claims to be a
birthplace for craft beer in the United States. Quite possibly the ‘new world’.
It was the early 1980s. Michael Jackson was number 1, Spielberg gave us ET and the
beer scene was large corporate breweries like Budweiser. Portland had had
enough and once appropriate legislative changes were made, brew pubs and
breweries popped up everywhere. Today there is some debate as to whether
Portland has the most breweries in the world, or simply the most per capita
(London has recently claimed to also have the most breweries). Either way it
doesn’t matter. They are everywhere in and around the city.
As a tourist to another city I would struggle to name
another place that names one of city sections after the beer that is brewed
there. The ‘Brewery Blocks’ within the arty, foodie Pearl District contains
amongst other things:
- BridgePort Brewing Company
- Deschutes Brewery
Okay so three breweries may not seem that big a deal, but
credit where it’s due. In downtown Portland within a two or three block radius
you have three of the ‘biggest and best’ craft breweries in the world. That
sure is exciting.
Cross the Willamette River and it’s much the same. All within walking distance or at worse a short tram ride:
- Widmer Brothers Brewing
- Hair of the Dog Brewing
- Lucky Labrador Brew Pub
- Green Dragon Bistro & Brew Pub
- Cascade Brewing Barrel House
I mean come on; this is Disneyland for craft beer loving
adults. By no means is that it either. There are some 40 breweries and brew pubs in the Portland area. That's a lot of good beer.
Don’t get me wrong, there are plenty of other things to do
and see in Portland other than beer hopping around the city (if you really
must). There’s Powell’s Books – one of the best bookstores I’ve been to
anywhere in the world. The amazingly decadent Voodoo Doughnuts....but even some
doughnuts are made with beer supplied from Rogue Brewery. Likewise, Rogue makes
a maple bacon doughnut flavoured beer. Brilliant! Sorry where was I? It came
back to beer. There’s also Japanese and Chinese Gardens, Oregon forest. Oh and
you know what they grow out beyond the forests? Hops! For the beer! Oops. I did
it again.
In all seriousness however America’s Pacific Northwest is a
renowned hop growing region and the quality of hops, water and barley all
sourced locally is a major reason why so many breweries congregate in Portland.
I’ve seen a fair bit of the States. East Coast, West Coast,
some parts in the middle. A number of cities are proud beer regions. New
England. Seattle. San Diego is right up there. But nothing is quite like Portland. A walk around at night is a treat. Don’t like the brews at a
particular brew pub? Fine. Take a 5 minute walk and go to another. And with so
much good quality local craft beer available, regular bars, restaurants and
hotels are almost forced to tap the very best. No Bud or Corrs Light around
here folks.
The final point I’d like to make about Portland is that
nickname again. Beervana.
Any city that actually debates what its beer related nickname
should be is alright with me. Yes it’s officially ‘Rose City’ but the Portland
Oregon Visitors Association promotes the city as either Beervana or Brewtopia. Posters
in the city also dubbed it Brewtown. But in 2006 the Mayor of the city
officially gave the city a new nickname - Beertown.
Really makes little difference what we call it.
What matters is Portland, Oregon has without a doubt
achieved that illustrious state of nirvana. Beer nirvana.
And for that I will continue to toast Portland every time I raise
a glass of delicious craft beer. Pioneers deserve such acknowledgement. Maybe you should toast them too.
Till then,
Cheers!…Prost!...Salute!...Kampai!
