The Global Search for Greatness – Part II (Europe)

The global search continues…

I’ve already looked at the United Kingdom in regards to the global search for beer greatness, so it’s now time to look at other parts of Europe.

Ireland

The Emerald Isle. The land of the leprechaun. My heritage on Dad’s side. Ireland is all those things but man, it sure does like its stout! I soon realised that to order any beer other than Murphy’s in the south, or Guinness pretty much anywhere, led to long strange looks from bar staff.

Seriously, I did not just order a glass of Listerine and milk…why are you looking at me like that?!

I did like that in Dublin ordering Guinness simply meant shuffling up to the bar and motioning with one’s fingers the number you wanted. Minutes later they were handed over once they had time to settle.

Then your wallet is ripped from your hand and emptied out. Gee, Ireland sure is expensive!

Whilst Guinness is pretty cliché and to be honest, isn’t even that good as far as stouts go (however it does taste better in Ireland - it's scientifically proven...by me), but it is a good place to start for a then Fosters drinking Aussie living in London!

It has to be said however that the Guinness Brewery tour is a must if visiting Dublin. It’s modern, interactive, and actually offers some of the best views over the city’s skyline you will find! All that with a free pint in your hand. Can’t be that bad hey? Just keep an eye on your wife. The locals seeing a young woman with a pint of stout in each hand sure does grab their attention! Naughty leprechauns.

Belgium / Netherlands

I certainly had no appreciation of how much beer is consumed, and how many breweries there actually are in Belgium before I went there. Brussels and Bruges in particular are pretty mystical places, but the matching of every beer with their own beer glass (there’s over 400 of them!) is truly grand. You gotta respect that.

Maybe Belgium beer has lost a little bit of its shine as most of their complex ales are available pretty much everywhere now, but the imagery of light snow falling, the Christmas markets pumping, a dinner of mussels and chocolate waffles, followed by a Trappist beer made by monks…argh magic!

As for Amsterdam, an entire blog could be dedicated to the place, however personally, there isn’t a lot to say about their beer. Its all Heinekin, Amstel and Grolsch. Unlike Stella or Fosters people in Amsterdam actually drink their well known flagship beers which I guess is credit to them, but at the end of the day they are pretty basic, middle of the road lagers. Not unlike Guinness, the Heineken Brewery is well worth the tour, if for nothing else the free beer glass gives you something to put your toothbrushes in almost a decade later!

Germany

Where to begin? The home of beer some people say. The origin of the beer hall, the Hofbrauhaus and lets not forget Oktoberfest. They drink so much beer they don’t even realise it takes place in September and not October!

Beer wise Munich is the city to get to. Berlin is a great place to visit, but beer wise, any place with a beer named after it, which comes in red or green colours/flavours (and often ‘served’ with a straw) is questionable.

I’d say more about Germany, the beers, the singing, the different styles of lager, the meat to wash down the beer, how the hell those beer glasses ended up in my wife's bag…but stuffed if I can remember…

Czech Republic

The Czech Republic is famous as the origin of pilsner, which of course is named after the local town of Pilsen. Never went to Pilsen…not a great need when Prague is such a brilliant city, and pilsners are basically poured from the town’s fountains.

Prague was all sightseeing and pilsners. Didn’t do a lot else. Just go. Still here? Told you to go…actually if you are still here make a side trip to Budapest. That’s pretty cool too, but what does this look like, a fricken travel blog?

That’s it folks. Obviously there is a lot more to Europe and beer than what is mentioned in this already long blog…I could tell you about drinking Estrella Damm in Spain, Peroni in Italy, Gosser in Austria, Eichhof in Switzerland, or struggling to find an affordable beer other than Kronenbourg in France. But the above is what really stood out to me in terms of the elusive global search for beer greatness.

And one other thing. To me, Europe is the place where beer and food really is a match made in heaven. How in Europe can you not have a local beer with that country's finest cuisine? If you aren't matching your Hungarian goulash with the finest Borsodi brew or a metre long German sausage with a tasty Bavarian lager, then quite frankly pack up your bags and piss off back home. Harsh I know, but just saying...

Did I find beer greatness in Europe? Generally no, but there are some magnificent big flavoured beers. But then again if I did find it I’d probably have to stop looking…and that would suck.

Stayed tuned for ‘The Global Search for Greatness – Part III (Asia)’.

Till then,

Cheers!…Prost!...Salute!...Kampai!

The Global Search for Greatness – Part I (United Kingdom)

Despite the greatness of (many) Australian beers, especially with the recent emergence of craft beers and local microbreweries, the allure of the ‘foreign beer’ has always been an exciting prospect.

Beer and travel has always been a match made in heaven for me. I mean heck, I love travel…my wife and I travel a lot…I love beer…bingo!

Not long after a trip is booked (often before!) the research begins to see if there are breweries near by to visit, or to at least find out what the local brews are.

I can’t imagine sitting on a small plastic chair in the middle of Hanoi’s ancient quarter in 40 degree heat and drinking a Heineken! Pleeeease…

My global search for beer greatness begins in the UK, but will also include most of Europe and Asia. Something can be said for pretty much every country (even every city); however with the risk that you will close the browser after about two countries…I will split this into Part I – UK, Part II – Europe and Part III – Asia. 

So lets start with the United Kingdom.

It was 2002/03, the sun was shining and the beers were ice cold. Wait, wrong story. Wrong place. That isn’t it…

It actually was 2002/03; however it was a working holiday to the UK. At the time my beer drinking selection was pretty much just lager. Didn’t know much about Ales or Bitters, and to be honest didn’t care to try. Looking back I hate that I didn’t try them and next time I go to the UK I will certainly be trying them all! Well some of them anyway.

What shocked me the most in the UK (or at least in 2002/03) is that if you want a pint of lager, the options on tap are always Fosters and maybe one or two others. When the other choices are basically a rotation of Stella or Becks or something uninspiringly similar, I found myself ordering Fosters. Oh the shame, but it seemed to be the one constant in every pub if you wanted a lager. So it was kinda ‘easy’.

To my surprise it wasn’t that bad (pause for sledging…). Besides, the good thing about drinking a beer that may be a tad embarrassing (okay is embarrassing), is that it could be anything inside that pint glass in my hand!

“This here? Oh I’m drinking a pint of Innis & Gunn. It’s aged in oak barrels. Those crazy Scots…”

I also want to mention the Campaign for Real Ale Great British Beer Festival. 

The 2003 ‘CAMRA Great British Beer Festival’ in London was the first real opportunity for me to try different types of beer other than just lager. Not much more than a massive hall filled with beer stalls, the Beer Festival was a massive eye opener for me in terms of trying quality beer. Looking back on it the two main things I remember of the day were - it was almost 40 degrees in London (yuck), and if my wife stepped forward to ask to try a particular beer, our glasses were filled a lot higher than if I did! I’m not proud of peddling my wife’s assets to get more beer (I mean her Aussie accent), but it probably won’t be the last time I do it either (hey we’re talking free beer here!)…  

Beer highlights? Too long ago to recall to be honest, and many hours of sampling the best from Adnams, Fuller's and Wentworth's probably meant I didn’t remember the very next day. I did purchase a Hicks Special Draught t-shirt and still have it today…so I’m guessing that went down okay!

Unfortunately any mention of the Beer Festival leads to death like stares from my wife. How was I supposed to know Melbourne's wind would knock over and smash the souvenir pint glass we kept? Hey we got 4 or 5 years use out of it!

Sadly the main aim living in London was to find drinkable beer at the lowest price. This often meant drinking at home, and by drinking I mean grabbing 500ml cans of the cheapest lager from the local supermarket. Who pays 2 quid if say Carlsberg is on special for 60p? Whooooo?!

I reckon that’s enough for the UK for now. Living there and travelling around leads to many beer related stories, but we’re all a bit tired so it’s time to move on.

But that’s not it folks! Stayed tuned soon for ‘The Global Search for Greatness – Part II (Europe)’.

Till then,

Cheers!…Prost!...Salute!...Kampai!

The Rivalry that is Beer

Beer comes in many styles, tastes and flavours. There are different levels of bitterness, hopiness (that a word?), lighter or darker malts, low carb, cold filtered. Complicated stuff for a beginner.

Thinking back to when I started drinking beer the thing that stood out the most – more than any particular flavour or style, were the rivalries involved in drinking particular brands of beer. I still don’t think you get the same rivalry with other alcoholic drinks as you do with competing beer brands.

Not to say it doesn’t happen but you don’t see too many people arguing over particular wineries or choice of vodka.

Let me explain.

In Tassie there is a real North versus South rivalry. Launceston versus Hobart if you like. Or, as it happens to be; Boag’s versus Cascade. Being from the North I sided with Boag’s and still kinda do. But being in a bar in Hobart with a Boag’s Premium in hand (Boag’s Draught wasn’t even allowed south of the midlands in the 90s), I would be heckled, sledged and have my sexuality questioned at every opportunity. It was like an intense footy rivalry. And much like footy, I loved it! It added to the overall beer drinking experience.

Not only could I enjoy the beer but I also had a new team to support. Team Boag’s!

Moving to Sydney things weren’t that different. In Sydney, anything outside the NSW border was seen as inferior and could not be trusted. A real man drank Toohey’s New or at worst, Toohey’s Extra Dry. Toohey’s Old perhaps for the classier, more mature gentleman. ‘Whoa you rebel, gotchyaself a Hahn I see. Don’t step too far out of your comfort zone…’

To conform I dabbled in them all, but behind closed doors stuck to Boag’s or even Carlton Draught or Coopers and silently apologised to them every time I ‘beer strayed’.

In Sydney I also noticed something for the first time. I called it the ‘Sydney Beer Snob’. Now the Sydney Beer Snob may drink a NSW brew if they have to, but would never ever touch something from another state. They like their State of Origin up that way – a sporting concept borrowed off the southern states of course (don’t ever try telling them that!), but this seemed ridiculous. They especially wouldn’t touch anything from ‘Mexico’ (i.e. Victoria). The Sydney Beer Snob thought they were all class with a Heineken, or maybe Becks or Stella in their hands. Far too classy to touch Australian beer!

Never had the heart to tell em what they were drinking was akin to someone in Europe or the US drinking Fosters…

The Sydney Beer Snob seemed sold on the concept that international beer was much pricier, and therefore must be superior in not only image, but also quality.

Things are a bit easier in Melbourne. People seem to drink a bit of everything. Like footy codes, I fit in better in Melbourne when it comes to beer. Some brews from CUB aren’t as bad as some other ‘big brand beers’ out there and there are microbreweries everywhere! Whilst I wish there were a few gems in the actual city centre, the number of microbreweries in Victoria is a major reason why I have developed such an appreciation of all things beer.

And next time I have a Boag’s Premium in my hand here in Melbourne, I know I won’t have my sexuality questioned…at least not over my choice of beer!

I don’t think beer brand rivalry is native to Australia anymore than sporting rivalries. There are obvious rivalries everywhere. Guinness versus Murphy’s in Ireland, Sapporo versus Kirin versus Asahi in Japan, Miller versus Bud in the US. Breweries compete with each other for domestic dominance as much as any other business, and through advertising try and attract dedicated supporters just like sporting teams.

Which brings me to craft beer. Until a few years ago I certainly didn’t appreciate it or seek it out. Probably thought craft beer was sold at an Arts and Crafts Market, and should be avoided at all costs as it was probably made with juniper berries and cloves. A nice drinkable lager was pretty much all beer was to me. But in sporting terms craft beer is the underdog. The sporting team the general masses don’t seem to barrack for; yet very few dislike. They are the team respected, but not always followed. But those who ‘barrack’ for craft beer do so with as much if not more passion than anyone I know!

But more on craft beers and microbreweries later. Much later.

Next, we need to head over to England for a working holiday in the old country, and talk up my discovery of European beers…some bad, and some good. Oh, and speaking of which, that includes Fosters Lager! Yes, Foster Lager…

Till then,

Cheers!…Prost!...Salute!...Kampai!

That First Wretched Taste

As I said before. Beer…I love it.

But I didn’t always love it. In fact I detested it. Vile, bitter, gassy, vomit inducing muck is probably more apt to what I thought. Didn’t really think it smelt any better going in as it did coming out. Though to be fair it is an acquired taste, and everyone starts out disliking beer. I’m pretty sure that’s a birth right.

Assuming beer was never put in my bottle to stop me crying as a baby, my first experience with the amber fluid was as a child in Tassie. Like most kids no doubt, I would sneak over and suck the white frothy head off Dad’s beer on a hot summer’s day. Luckily it wasn’t hot in Tassie too often as the froth didn’t taste as good as it looked.

From then on beer was dead to me. Even when I turned 18 and left home for Uni and relocated to the bright lights of Hobart, I disliked it. Sorry; I detested it.

I thought back then that beer wasn’t much more than an older person’s drink, or something central (along with cigarettes) to footy and cricket advertising. Boonie or Border was rarely seen on TV in those days without a can in their hand…unless they were actually batting. Or such fond memories I had of Sticks Kernahan pouring a pot of beer over his impressive mullet the day after the 1987 Grand Final win! It looked mighty cool (even at 12), but I just didn’t like it. Couldn’t understand why people did.

I detested it.

To be fair I thought alcohol in general tasted like the depths of kitty litter. Couldn’t stand beer, didn’t like wine, didn’t really know what else there was to drink. That’s a serious issue when living in a share house and attending Uni.

Then something happened. Standing in the Uni Bar one Friday someone handed me a Midori and lemonade thinking I might at least like that. It was such a pretty colour! And it tasted, ummm sweet! Then I spied my mate across the bar holding a can of Cascade Pale Ale. I was in shock. He hated beer as much as I did! Once I finished the Midori and had my manhood back intact, I approached him. He said it was ‘delicious and tasted like apples!’ Apparently someone told him that you have to have 4 or 5 of them in a row, and then you suddenly like beer! Just like that.

It took a few weeks before I had the nerve to try 4 or 5 in a row…but my god they were right! Beer rocked. Or at least the last 4 or 5 glasses of VB I drank sure did rock! Whooo I liked beer!

With my beer virginity gone, there was so much to learn about drinking beer in the coming months, including:

·         Beer and ice cream can (and will) make you vomit.

·         Cheap beer and chocolate leaves a rather slimy bitter taste in your mouth.

·         Beer and exercise don’t go well together. Especially if you have the beer first.

·         Beer and the Hobart Show is not a match made in heaven. Wouldn’t wanna sit behind me on that ride.

Just like cheap meals and boring lectures at Uni, beer and the potential for vomiting seemed to go together in the early days. Yet there was still something unique and attractive about beer! At least on the way in…

I guess you have to start somewhere. Whilst Midori is probably not the place to start, I am pleased to say I have not had one since, but have had more than just a few beers.

I even stopped throwing up. Eventually…

Stay tuned folks. Next time I will be exploring the sporting like culture of beer. That is, the fierce rivalries involved in drinking particular brands of beer!

Till then,

Cheers!…Prost!...Salute!...Kampai!